domingo, 13 de febrero de 2011

Mundaka and Burmeo, an excursion

The study abroad program that I am on includes a couple prepaid excursions to surrounding areas in the Basque country. Our first excursion was this past Friday to a couple towns along the coast called Mundaka and Burmeo. Mundaka was about an hour away by bus and was a very small but pleasant seaside town with some great views. In one spot along what you might call the main road, the bus pulled over to park. At this point the road rises up higher than the sea and you can look down the grassy and bramble and bush covered hill to see the ocean splashing against the cliff sides. Its a vantage point that makes for some beautiful shots of the ocean. I noticed a small stone church down on a little extension of land that was almost hidden from view with all the trees and plants on the hill. In the distance, you can see the coast wrap around to form great cliffs that the sea rises up against in big white waves. A randome island was also visible. Although it did not appear very spectacular, just like a giant rock in the bay, apparently a great naval battle took place between two Basque villages to determine who would have control of this little bit of rock. 






We headed into town and really just went on a walking tour that offered a lot of great photo opportunities, and so all the students in our big group took tons of pictures. Then they let us free for about a half our, but there did not seem to be much to do. One thing I was disappointed in with our tours was how little information our teachers actually gave us. I have no history to carry away from Mundaka--it was just a neat little town in an extremely beautful setting. Thankfully, Burmeo was a tad bit more interesting.


Burmeo is maybe five minutes away from Mundaka and has had a long history as a prominent fishing village. To this day, it is still one of the more important fishing towns for Northern Spain. Its obvious when you drive into it, what the main profession is. Ships and boats line the docks and are impossible to miss. The buildings in Burmeo were nice, and appeared newer than Mundaka. We took another walking tour of this town, stopping in great areas to take lots of photos. At one point, we were along a railing that gave a view of the breaker. Benches are set along this area and old Basque men were out in their little black berets, sitting and talking, gawking at us Americans who gawked right back. Some other groups of Spanish were wandering around letting thier dogs run in the nice whether. (Everyone has dogs here in Spain, and you always have to watch your step to avoid a smelly surprise!)








We were provided a nice lunch here. At which point, we all discussed the Spanish fondness for bread. We all agree that the vast majority of what we've been eating is bread. Every meal, a crust of bread. And they are strange about the bread--they never set it onto a plate. Instead they just place it right onto the table. One girl said her host mother told her that it was considered bad manners to place the bread on a plate--God knows why.


From Burmeo, we were given a surprise stop in a another location with great views of the coast an ocean. Only, at this location, we saw another random island--but also a beautiful little church settled right onto the top of a rocky little peninsula jutting out into the sea. Our vantage point was such a peaceful location, that it truly felt magical to look upon the little red-rooved church. A very long staircase winds its way up to the church and legend has it that if you climb the stairs and count each and every one, then ring the bell at the top, you will get married. Of course all of us girls are determined to go back to climb the stairs--just to do it. I would love to feel like I was part of a modern day fairytale. A funny side note: when I told my roomate about the church she nodded and said she has gone twice and rung the bell twice. "What does it mean to ring the bell, again?" she asked. "That you will get married." Hearing that she said, "Oh, crap! I don't ever want to get married!"





We took a nice hike in that area and I don't think I have ever seen such beautful countryside. I have never wanted to live by the sea, but Burmeo has truly made me reconsider that idea. Although you are along the coast here in Spain, you can't smell that gross seaside smell. Its just fresh and nice. And everything is GREEN. And not just green, its like a vibrant and incredibly bright green like nothing I have ever seen. My friend Lizzie agreed that its a green not to be found in the States. I worry that my photos just wont do it justice. I have to write about the scenery now lest I should ever forget. This region is formed of lots of hilly pastures, edged with dense forest, set right along the sea with great cliffs that lift you high above the waves. Pastures are home to both sheep and palm trees. It is unique and beautful here.




Finally, we were brought to a local winery, called Doniene Gorrondona, where they specifically create the traditional Basque white wine called Txakolina. We were given a walk through the vineyard, a tour of the tiny winery, and a sample of the Txakolina. It was nice hearing the guide explain to us in Spanish about the simplicity of the process and the meaning of making the wine. Right now, despite the nice weather we have had, it is still winter, and all the vines are sleeping, and there is no blood (sap) inside the plants and so they are considered dry. Simple and elegant ways to describe the state of the grape vines. He informed us that still to this day, the vast majority of the work is done manually.


Inside the winery are great containers, where the grape juice that its first squeezed from the grapes is fermented for about 15 days, after which the juice has become alcoholic, ie wine. Then it is squeezed through a machine that removes all the pulp, and then it is mechanically bottled. I was thrilled with this little winery and really had a great time on that short but sweet little tour. The Txakolina tastes very nice and the surrounding views make it sweet on the eyes too. If I can, I may try to bring some home for family to have a taste of the Basque country.

lunes, 7 de febrero de 2011

San Sebastian!

Yep, this weekend I went to San Sebastian. I've been slacking on the blogging, for which I do not apologize, simply because I am in Spain and I'll get around to it. That seems to be the Spanish motto--take your time. But I need to do it before I forget! Speakign of which, I finally finished the Toledo entry for anyone who is interested in going back to that page for additional pictures and and info. 
 
Anyway, San Sebastian was totally fun. The occasion for going was one of the girls' birthday, so we headed up Saturday morning and some went home that night and others went home the next day. The bus was pretty nice for only seven euros and the ride lasted about an hour and a half mabe an hour and fortyfive minutes. San Sebastian is located right next to the ocean with an amazing beach called La Playa de la Concha--Conch shell beach, basically, because it is shaped exactly like a conch shell, complete with an island in the center, like a pearl in the middle of a shell.
 
 
 
Our hostal was situated right in la Parte Vieja, the oldest part of the city, and a huge church was literally right outside my door. Another church, which I got to briefly explore the inside of, was down the street to our right. La Parte Vieja is filled with pinxo bars and souvenier shops and traditional artisan shops and all kinds of things. Right behind La Parte Vieja is a mountain, atop wich is a huge statue of Jesus. I ended up not gettign the chance to walk up to Jesus, but the next morning we took a hike up the oposite mountain on the opposite side of the whole beach which gave us an amazing view of the whole city.
 
 
 
Saturday night we all went to a sidreria, which is a traditional cider house in the basque country. Inside, the tables are tall since traditionally you stand. One wall is lined with huge barrels of cider, each one with a different flavor. The way it works is you pay one price, and you get all the cider you can drink and a meal with about 4-6 courses depending on how you count it. First course is bread, fifth "course" was a repeat of the fourth, and last course was a light desert of cheese and apple jelly. The dishes in between were fish dishes (I have honeslty never enjoyed fish more) and the most mouth watering steak. In between dishes, you go and get a little bit of sidra to drink, then come back and eat a little, then go get some sidra and so on. We had so much fun! But we were sadly, very obviosuly american drinkers! I laughed so hard at that dinner! But it was not cheap, let me say.
 
 

 
When we left and came back to the hostal, a huge festival was going on and all the local townspeople were dressed up like gypsies. Two huge statues of gypsies were directly in front of out hostal! What luck we had! And they sang long into the night.
 
Next morning was the hike up to the view, and then we headed home aorund three in the afternoon.